Over its twenty-seven years, the SIHH (Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie, or just Geneva Watch Fair) has made its mark as the reference among international fine watch shows.
Each January, the city of Geneva sets the stage for emerging trends in the watch scene. These are our highlights of this year:
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Day-Date Chronograph Black Titanium
Based on the 1960s Carrera, the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Day-Date Chronograph Black Titanium displays a contemporary and elegant look to please those very big fans and the modern hipsters.
In 2017, this sporty 43mm-watch moves with its time thanks to a lighter version made up of a black Titatnium with beige detailing. It also has a distressed brown leather strap for men who want to blend comfort with elegance.
Panerai Radiomir Special Edition
Panerai has always been a brand with a very focused history. As the prime supplier to the Italian Navy, they created bold watches, which often accompanied divers on dangerous missions. For SIHH 2017 Panerai has announced two special editions that pay tribute to a watch close to the heart of Panerai’s legacy.
This legendary watch is not only the first known Panerai but being made in the mid- to late 1930’s it was destined to serve in WWII. It was fitted with manual wind caliber 618 from Rolex, yet its most recognizable feature was perhaps the engraved bezel. That bezel returns on the two special editions of the Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio.
Both are housed in a 47 mm, stainless steel Radiomir case. Combined with the onion crown and the engraved bezel that reads: Officine Panerai Brevettato (this last word meaning that the design was patented) it recreates the look and feel of that very first Panerai. Of course, these watches are not fitted with a Rolex-caliber, but with one of Panerai’s own, in this case, caliber P3000. The beauty of this movement is that, just like its predecessor, it fills the case very nicely with a diameter of 16 1/2 linges, or just over 37 mm. More so, it is also a robust movement with a full bridge over the balance wheel, while the double mainspring barrel gives it a power reserve of a generous three days.
IWC Da Vinci Line
IWC puts a whole new line of Da Vinci timepieces on display, heading back to the original round case that had suddenly become tonneau-shaped ten years ago.
The feminine mid-sized Da Vinci Automatic 36 and Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 are housed in red gold or stainless steel cases, some with diamonds. Pricing ranges between $5,500 and $16,400.
The pared-down 40 mm Da Vinci Automatic and 43 mm Da Vinci Chronograph for men in stainless steel range in price from $5,500 (steel/strap automatic), $6,500 (steel/bracelet automatic) to $12,700 for the chronograph on a Santoni strap.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon
With a return of the Geophysic into the collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre revived in 2014 one of the favorite classic models from the 1950’s. For the upcoming SIHH, they step it up with the introduction of the tourbillon version of the Universal Time.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
The new model sports a matte black brushed ceramic case, alongside a ceramic bracelet to match. According to AP, the case required over 600 grueling hours of research to develop, which is understandable given that the new ceramic case is virtually impossible to scratch and resistant to age. As far as technical details go, the new watch will sport the Royal Oak Perpetual Calender’s typical 5134.
Zenith El Primero Heritage 164
A couple months ago, Hodinkee revealed it had partnered with Zenith on a small, 25-piece run of vintage-inspired El Primeros. A couple hours later they were all sold out. If you missed your chance to order one, fear not: it seems that Hodinkee release was a precursor to Zenith’s new line of vintage-inspired chronographs.
For starters, the new Heritage 164 follows the industry trend of downsizing; at just 38mm, it’s a similar size to most chronographs from the 1960s. The dial layout is also incredibly spartan — there’s only a two sub-dial layout and there’s no date window. Inside, the watch runs Zenith’s high-beat El Primero caliber 4069, ticking away at 36,000 bph with a 50-hour power reserve. Two colors are available: blue and brown sunray dials, with matching perforated leather straps. Pricing as of yet has not been announced, but considering the very limited and COSC-certified Hodinkee El Primero came in at $7,900, we suspect this will go for considerably less than that.
And just in case you are opting for a less bank-breaking alternative …
Minus-8 Diver Watch
San Francisco-based watch brand Minus-8 have introduced the Diver Watch, a sleek automatic titanium dive watch. Not your average dive watch, DIVER is a bold take on the future of performance watch piece, it is powered by a fully automatic Seiko movement, it’s waterproof up to 300 meters, and has a helium-release valve for smooth surfacing under extreme conditions.
The 44 millimeter case is crafted from ultralight, ultra-strong titanium and features a screw down crown for maximum durability. The dial is designed for maximum visibility in all light conditions and is protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that’s second only to diamond in its hardness. The DIVER is completed with a lightweight, corrosion-resistant titanium bracelet in two finishes: Matte Black and Matte Silver.